Here is the story behind the pictures, I no longer own this bike. In April 2000 I purchased a 2000 R1. At the time I attempted to sell the bike for 8,400. I had not takers, so the bike was disassembled and parted out over a one month period.
95% of the work you see was done by me. I really enjoy the challenge of the whole project, from the disassembly, the custom building, the machining, the welding, the wiring, reassembling and setting up the bike. I spent some money, a lot of time and more than a few sleepless nights.
My brother was working at Jim Walkers Yamaha/Honda/Suzuki in Daytona Beach, Florida. Well he calls me one day and says he can get this mint 1994 YZF750 with 3000 miles on it, CHEAP.
Of course I jumped on it. That was fall 1996 and I paid $4,600.00. That spring I went to bike week and picked it up. It now has over 20,000 miles on it.
The bike has seen many modifications and improvements. I've listed them to your right.
Here is a short overview of the work, below that is an overview of the final bike before it was parted out.
The motor was disassembled and I had Superbike Mike do a stage one port job and a Serdi valve grind. He replaced all of the intake valves. At the same time I installed an Arais 856 big bore kit. The cylinder was shipped to Racing Engine Services, new sleeves were installed. I replaced the Main and Rod bearings. A set of 39mm Keihin flatslides handle the carburetion. The original hydraulic clutch was removed and an Attack Racing mechanical clutch was installed in it's place. The original clutch was replaced with a Barnett kevlar clutch kit. It was removed after the first ride as you could not get the bike into neutral, it dragged despite huge adjustments and generally sucked. I reinstalled the 20,000 mile stocker and it works great! A 1997 YZF750 high capacity radiator was installed for better cooling. A Vance and Hines power pack replaced the stock unit. I am currently running a Yoshimuria slip-on with the stock EXUP. It makes killer midrange power! I spent a few weeks jetting the bike for the big bore kit, I also had to go back and re-shim the valves.
This was a huge improvement in the powerband. Still revs like a 750, yet has killer torque throughout the powerband. However.....
My biggest problem was heat, man does this bad boy generate heat. Do not, I repeat do not install this kit in a 94 or 95 YZF with the small radiator. If you are going this route be sure that you have a 96-97 radiator, or plan on seeing some over heating problems.
Also if you plan on running a flatslide carb, particulary kehins on this bike. Get ready to spend some coin. Very expensive and the reality is that they do not justify the cost. Carbs and a jet kit will net far better results for the average rider.
I tried three exhaust systems on the bike. (1) Vance and Hines (came with the bike) it sucked. Replaced it with a full Akropovic Titanium system. Light and works pretty damm good. However I ended up with the stock headers and exup using a Yoshimura race can slip-on which netted the most torque and decent power of the group.
I replaced the original wheels with a set of Dymag magnesium wheels. Braking rotors, Goodridge brake lines and Galfer brake pads to handle the front braking chores. I set up the rear suspension with Attack Racing linkage and a Fox fully adjustable shock, Goodridge brake line with EBC brake pads.
I am currently using stock bodywork with an Airtech rear solo tail section. I am using a Gustufson Daytona windscreen.
There are a ton of hand built bits and pieces on the bike. To many to list, I've hand built, machined and welded whatever need to be made to make parts fit.
I spent about a month researching companies who do fork rebuilding. I settled on Lindemann Engineering. Any questions I had were gladly answered by Jim Lindemann personally. I really felt very comfortable with their skills.
I sent them about December 1st 1998, got them back February 18th 1999.
It took awhile, but it's hard to blame Lindemann. My forks had some problems that stemmed from the original owner, who loved doing wheelies. I paid for his hard landings.
The chrome sliders were ruined and had to be re-chrome plated. The freshly plated sliders were then gold titanium nitrated. Since My bike came from Florida, andthe sun had faded the outer tubes anodizing. I had them this far apart, so I had them re-anodized gold with a high gloss polish. They also replaced all seals, bushings and installed Eilbach springs. They set them up for for me based on my weight and fast sport riding.
The finish is top notch and after spending three days in the Deals Gap I was impressed. The improvement in front end feel and damping rate is spot on. I have not had to re-adjust anything.
What I found was a vast improvement in corner speed and grip. Really just a great feeling of confidence at any speed. This is by far the best improvememt I made to this bike!
With that said, I spoke to Jim Lindemann at Daytona and he asked me to mention that most of the money I spent was in refinishing the tubes and sliders. If you are considering sending your forks to them in for a rebuild (damper mods, springs and oil) it will cost about 300.00
On the back of the bike tirst thing I did was replace the shock linkage with Attack Performance linkage. What a difference. The rear end went from being harsh and choppy to very compliant and when you take corners you get very predictable suspension set. No more quick drop or chop, very smooth. This was with the stock shock!
I then purchased a Fox shock, and it to made cornering that much better, it also eliminated the sharp studder over bumps. It offers both rebound, compression dampening adjustments, ride height ajustment, and frankly it kicks ass over the stock unit.
I am very satisfied with these two components. Both pieces are well made, well developed products. Mounting the remote reservoir is a hassle as the braided line just does not want to turn the way you want it to..
For sure developing my suspension was the best thing I have done to the bike.
Fran Hall sourced out a used set of Dymag magnesium wheels for me. Excellent way to save some unsprung weight! I had to replace the cush drive bushings with an updated version 60.00 set, a Talon rear sprocket (wouldn't you know the Dymags require a special sprocket) 70.00 and upon installation, I noticed a clicking noise! Turns out the the sprocket carrier bearing was toast, another $40.00. You can really tell the difference on corner turn in and braking. However the end result is the bearings in these wheels suck and getting parts for them is a pain in the ass. Note to self, no more magnesium wheels!
I replaced my warped stock rotors with direct replacement Braking rotors. A vast improvement over the stockers!
I did however encounter a major problem. After my trip to Deals Gap I noticed that the wave washers were cracking and chunks were falling out, some of the washers were gone completley. This was causing the pins to twist in the carriers. At this point the rotors had about 700 miles on them.
To say I was shocked would be an understatement. I quickly thought back to the Gap and thought, how lucky not to have been killed. Imagine the rotor seperating from the carrier at any speed.
After many calls to Braking (which is now under distribution by Motion Pro, the cable guys), I was told that these were the only YZF750 rotors Parts Unlimited had ever sold and that they had no stock on them.
I was told to return the rotors to California, where they we promptly shipped to Braking in Italy. They agreed that the rotors I had were not manufactured correctlyand sent me a new set.
The new rotors are vastly different, much thinner and the rotor itself is machined differently. My total downtime was about two weeks. I will say this, the guysat Braking in California did work as quickly as they could to remedy the problem as well as including 2 sets of new Braking brake pads (I'm not sure yet weather or not I like them as well as Ferodo's)
Overall I am happy with the performance of these rotors, despite the above problems and near death experience.
I also installed a Stack ST8130 Gauge package. Pictures do not convey the amount of time that went into installing these gauges.
Right from the start it I encountered problems. STACK screwed my order up, that created many many phone calls to England (TOLL FREE) before they shipped them to me.Since this gauge package was originally designed for Formula One cars, many of the parts did not fit. (Although STACK is now working OEM with Ducati, Suzuki and Yamaha)
Plan on custom fitting this unit. You will find that the wire harness is plenty long. (Better to long than to short though) Wiring was not difficult, each wire is labeled (You should know how to read a schematic and be able to solder) Plan on spending at least 5 hours wiring.
You will also have to build a plate to mount the gauge pac and your additional idiot lights to. There was enough room on my bike to easily accomplish this.
If you are using aftermarket wheels which do not allow you to retain the original maechanica speedo drive and want to use the STACK speed, you will have to mount a wheel speed sensor (included in the kit). The sensor required a custom hand built bracket to mount it (not included).
The oil pressure sensor is huge and I have not yet mounted it. (another part designed for a car). As well on YZF750's there is no fuel level sensor. They use a senor unit which illuminates an idiot light when you are down to 1 gallon left in tank. This makes it impossible to use the Stack fuel meter.
The fit of the gauge pac is very good, however the harness fit along the side of the bike is very tight.
Overall the STACK gauge pac does pretty much what they claim they will do, and the setup via four computer screens on the dash is pretty easy.
I've got a few Attack Performance parts on my bike. These guys make without doubt the coolest shit for the YZF, the stuff is reasonable and it fits! When I first started dealing with Attack I wasn't real thrilled. However over the past few months I really can't say enough GOOD about these guys. They really know their shit about this bike! Richard Stanboli (The Owner) is a great guy to talk to and gives honest (honest like, I'm not going to confuse you with bullshit) advise. I would recommend that you consider buying from this company, they race what they sell and you can tell by the quality and fit. WOW! All told I've spent close to $2000.00 with them.
First off are the Triple Clamps. I mean check out the size of these triple clamps, machined from solid billet. These babies are a work of art. They offer quick change adjustable offset, as well as adjustable left lock to right lock travel. They do not come with bearings. You have to get them from a Yamaha dealer or have yours pressed off.
Billet Mechanical Clutch, another easy to install Attack product. You get a more linear pull. It is also adjustable, in that you can make the pull stiffer or lighter. No more vauge lever!
Shock Linkage, this linkage offers very progressive shock movement. Very noticeable in the corners! Even with the stock shock, which I used on my 3000 mile ride to Deals Gap. It's kind of a bitch to install. They do not include one bearing and one Pin that you must have. Your local dealer does not stock them, special order!
Rear Sets, these rear sets bolt right up, no mods and are very well made. On my trip to The Gap I used these and found them to be more comfortable than the stock units.
I have also added an AirTech solo tail section, Competion Werks fender eliminator (I've modified it further), Lockhart front (Smaller) turn signals, Woodcraft clip-on handlebars, Magura race brake lever/master cylinder, Pro Grips, Works Connection billett clutch lever, Goodridge brake lines, Gustufsan Daytona Windscreen.
In August 1999 I purchased the fairing, bellypan and cowl section off of Jamie Hackings factor YZF750, from Sharkskinz. It is completley finished in factory Yamaha blue and I will be installing it over the winter. This stuff is trick. The rear cowl comes with the carbon fibre fender and all.
